Leaving Israel

June 24, 2008

2 months ago today we found out we weren’t moving to LA, but rather, to NY.
4 weeks ago, on a Tuesday, we set out for London and for our three week trip to Europe.
Today, 4 weeks later, we have set out for NY by a circuitous route that will first take us to Connecticut, Massachusetts and New Jersey before rolling into Brooklyn.
And 4 weeks from today, also on a Tuesday, I start my job at AJWS.

5 large suitcases, 3 carry-on bags, plus one guitar and one Vicious Kitten later and we made it to the crazy Ben-Gurion airport. Flying on an Israeli airline always feels like one giant dysfunctional family reunion all on board the plane.

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Walking through Jerusalem this is what I see and hear: noisy construction at what seems like every major intersection; hordes of tourists who have descended upon the city for the summer season; lots of black, hot hot black coats with religious Jews who don traditional clothing; impatient Israelis who will love you and tell you how it is all in the same breath – a remarkable quality of Israelis that I have come to appreciate for their genuine honesty (even if sometimes it is too honest); the flags that change with whatever head-of-state is currently in country – this time it was the French flag because Sarkozy was in town; the sweet smell of roses near the David Citadel pool as I come up for air and to absorb the sight before my eyes- swimming and looking out on the Old City walls – now that is truly extraordinary; the cacophony of sounds and spices and people at the shuk – it’s amazing that this country works at all and at the shuk is where I feel it the most, with the venders who scream their prices, especially as the day draws to a close and everyting goes on sale, with the exotic mounds of spices, Arab venders, Jewish venders, my sweet spice and flower guy who calls me “moti” (sweetie) and always greets me with a huge smile and a friendly conversation.

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And these are the things I can’t hear or smell or see but can feel: a sense of frustration and anger from all kinds of Israelis, anger that the economy is staggering; angry that the peace process is as elusive as ever; angry that there is talk about a divided Jerusalem; angry that Israel would even consider giving up East Jerusalem – polar opposites and extremes. Israel is a land of extremes and a country that attracts extremists. With extreme heat and extreme coldness at night – it is the desert. With extreme Jews, who pray for the Third Temple and for the secular Israelis who live their Judaism by speaking Hebrew and living in the Holy Land. With Arabs, Christians, Palestinians, Jews, tourists and world leaders alike – who all claim a stake of this tiny sliver of land. Jerusalem is home to 42 different denominations of Christians and many say it is the most diverse Christian city in the world. Extremes of wealth: Israel’s high-tech industry has produced great wealth among the upper echelon of society, yet a staggering number of Jews still live in poverty in Israel in 2008.

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Israel is akin to a patchwork quilt, with all kinds of people and squares and stitching that composes and defines its many colors, its people, its dreams and its legend. Conquered by endless rulers and empires, its stones tell a very powerful story. Walking around the city gives me a sense of wanderlust – who walked on this very street before me, what have these stones borne witness to – which leader or prophet taught and inculcated his followings at various point in time and history. Woven together by a rich diversity and with very complicated borders it is a city that has evoked emotion and wars for over 2,000 years. And peace comes at a very steep price for this very special city. Yet, the feeling of walking around on Shabbat, with peace and quiet in the air, is an elusive feeling that I’d take in my suitcase if only I could. I was happy to have been part of its history, to have walked in the footsteps of the prophets, even if only for a brief moment in time.

Europe by the Numbers

Starting the hike in Riogamario, Italy

Jenny hanging out in Pisa, Italy

How amazing is this- Cinque Terra, on our hike

Our trip by the numbers:

1 euro for an amazing expresso in Lucca, Itlay
2 euros for an amazing box of chocolates in Brugges, Belgium
3 friends we visited in the UK (Steph and Stephen, Emily and Sarah - ok so it's 4!)
4 euros- the best we spent on our trip when we discovered there were lockers in the Brugges train station ad didn't have to lug our packs all day
5 towns we hiked in Cinque Terra, Italy
6 times we collectively ate gelato in Italy
7 museums we visited in Paris in 2 days (Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, Jewish Museum, Pantheon, Notre Dame crypt, Pompedium and Arc de Triumphe)
8 other people who slept in our dorm room in Brussels
9 euros we spent for brad, cheese and wine where we dined on the famous Pont Neuf Brige in Paris
10 bars in Edinburgh that Jenny showed Evan where she enjoyed partying in during her more wild days
13 nights of free accomodation: 4 in London with Steph and Stephen; 3 in Edinburgh with Sarah; 5 in Italy at Sara and Andrea's apartment in Viareggio, Italy and one in the Luton Airport
14 hours we spent in the Luton Airport because we refused to get a hotel, way too expensive
15 kilometers we rode our bikes in Amsterdam and the Dutch countryside
17 train rides (including transfers) we took in Italy
18 days we saw rain on our trip (big bummer)
21 glorious days in Europe
40 pounds we spent on glorious High Tea at the swanky Soho Hotel, London
65 euro supplement we had to pay on the Brussels-Amsterdam train for not traveling with infants (whoops, Evan bought the ticket in French)
70 euros for our best meal, eating Italian style at long tables with locals in Florence and having endless plates of food
90 minutes before Jenny got antsy in the Louvre
1,000 more places we want to see and experience in the world....

Many more pictures are on the blog - under Europe Pictures (go to www.jennyandevan.blogspot.com)

Evan chilling out in Paris

Less than 48 hours left

Thoughts rushing through my head, emotions choking, spices abound, music, sounds, breezes – cross breezes especially. Pieces float by, moments of so many miracles that abound in our daily existence. How blessed are we truly. To hear, to listen, to walk, to seek, to experience. Memories cascading through stuff, so much stuff, the materialism of it all. Music and familiar rhythms that fill us up – mentally, physically and spiritually. So may loose ends to tie up, and new beginnings awaiting us. Thinking and praying for five-day old Tikvah* and hoping it will be a good world for her and that she will be able to breathe and take in all of the mysteries of the universe. Being in this in-between space and place, all I can think about is, God I will miss this place.

Tikvah is our friend Dave and Gal's baby and they left Israel early to get Gal the best possible care for this rare condition.

Shabbat Musings

It's Saturday morning, almost 10am in Jerusalem. I've never given too much importance to the "last" things in my life. I've always been of the belief that one should make the best of their situation all the time, not just at the "last" opportunity. Today does feel special though - our last Shabbat in Israel. Of course we'll be back. I do realize, however, that it will be a long time before I have a full year of no commitments or obligations on Saturday mornings. So how to spend this day? Many options have run through my head in the last 30 minutes. I could:

1) Go to synagogue
2) Ride my bike through the Jerusalem forest
3) Make a cup of tea and read my book on our patio
4) Play Shabbat music on my guitar
5) Take a moment to capture this moment in writing

So that's what I've chosen to do, option 5. I'm sitting at my computer, listening to the Orthodox Jews below our window greet one another on their way to synagogue. Children are playing, men are singing in the local synagogue, and I'm taking it all in. Jenny and I are part of this Shabbat landscape here in Israel. Today, whatever we choose to do, will be filled with love and a desire to simply fill ourselves one more time with the weekly taste of peace that is Shabbat in Jerusalem.

Paris, Brugge, Brussels, and Amsterdam!

Writing from a small minimart/internet cafe on one of those picturesque side streets in Amsterdam. Our past week has been amazing, running to museums in Paris, sampling beer and chocolate in Brugge, seeing the bizarre national monuments in Brussels, and now enjoying all the beauty of Amsterdam. One of our highlights here has been renting a bike for the day where we rode through the Dutch countryside. Jenny was a champ and now loves biking!! We literally rode through fields and little towns, taking in the Dutch scenery- pigs, cows, horses, and all. Today we took advantage of a free, yes free, tour through the city. We tried to post pictures but have had some trouble reading the instructions in Dutch.

Tomorrow we're off to Tuscany, where we'll spend the last days of our trip. Sorry to make this short, we're off to explore our last night here before our very early morning flight to Milan. We'll definitely write more when internet doesn't cost a fortune- and will post some pictures as well. Crazy to think of where we're going..physically and mentally - to Italy next, then to Israel...then to NY. Whoah. Prego!

Good news

After being offered the excellent job as Chief Vicious Kitten Officer, I have declined her offer - and have taken a new professional job beginning mid-July. Actually I had two excellent offers (in addition to Vicious Kitten's offer!) to work for 2 phenomenal organizations - and it was a really hard decision...and the past few weeks have been filled with a lot of emails, phone calls, and big decisions...but a few days ago, from the streets of London, I accepted a job with the American Jewish World Service (AJWS) as the Senior Development Officer working to build a young leadership program. AJWS is an organization dear to my heart, it's the organization I worked with while I was in grad school and led service programs to Latin America. Check them out on the web: www.ajws.org

I think it will be a really good fit, full of lots of challenges and excitement. This is wonderful because it means we can truly enjoy our trip and last few weeks abroad, knowing that I am coming home to a job that I'm excited about - just wanted to share the good news. More from the continent (i.e. mainlaind Europe where I really hope the sun is shining since we haven't seen it in a week!)

Greetings from the UK!

Our past week in the UK has been about connecting with old friends, exploring new areas, and taking in the beauty of London and Edinburgh. I forgot how pricey it can be to enjoy the beauty of the UK, but it has been worth it. We've eaten several rounds of fish and chips, enjoyed many pints of beer, and yesterday I tried jacket potatoes for the first time, an Edinburgh specialty. It has been a special treat for me to visit Edinburgh, where Jenny studied abroad 8 years ago.
A few highlights of each country:

England: We stayed with our friends Stephanie and Stephen in their flat in Finchley. Finchley is a cute little town in North London, complete with great Indian food, a beautiful little park, and the local Catcher in the Rye pub. We spent a lot of time walking through the city, ducking into alleyways, strolling along the water, and even wandering into the Museum of Natural History in South Kensington (my sister's old neighborhood!). What a wonderful thing to just walk through a city with no particular place to be. Its the best (and cheapest) way to explore a new city. We also met up with Jenny's friend Emily from "uni" for pizza and a pint, took a rainy walking tour through Westminster, and shopped in the famous Covent Garden. London was a great start to our European journey!

Scotland: Here we stayed with Jenny's friend Sarah, Jenny's flatmate in "uni" that year. My first time in Edinburgh was great! It's been a bit rainy here, but we've put on our raincoats and braved the rain. Edinburgh Castle provided great insight into Scotlands history and beautiful views of the city. Walking through Mary Kings Close was like going back in time, exploring the alleyways and haunts of Edinburgh's past. Our trip closed with a hike up "the crags" for amazing views of the city. Today we have a few more hours in Edinburgh and then we're off to Paris!

A few pictures:

A view from Edinburgh Castle

Climbing the Edinburgh Crags

The streets of Edinburgh!

Edinburgh with the Old City in the background

Deacon Brodies pub - Inspiration for Jeckyll and Hyde by Robert Louis Stevenson who grew up in Edinburgh

Jenny and Sarah in local dress

Crossing the bridge near Big Ben with Stephanie

A rainy day in Westminster

Highlights of an incredible past month

What a whirlwind of the past month! Here are a few highlights:

* Evan successfully finished his first year of rabbincal school! He rocked and did really well.

* We partied like rock stars, until 3 am, dancing in the streets for Yom Haatzmaut - celebrating Israel's 60th year of independence. It's been a really intense month with all the Jewish holidays but so amazing to be here and feel the spirit in the air.

* Evan was awarded an Excellence in Community Service award last week at the final HUC Shabbat. It was great recognition for my rockstar husband who had not one, but 2 community service gigs this year

* We found out from HUC that they transferred us to the NYC campus! SO it's been a whirlwind trying to arrange for subletters, jobs, etc etc. Thankfully things are coming together very nicely!

* We had a great visit with Grandma Shirley who was here for 2 weeks in May

* Jenny saw her cousin Elaine who was on Birthright and wonderful to meet up in Tel Aviv

*Evan got his High Holiday pulpit and will be traveling to Arkansas to lead Rosh HaShana and Yom Kippur services- he's really excited about it

*Jenny is in the final stages of job negotiations and hopefully will be starting a great new job in August in NY

* And we're taking a vacation - one last hurrah before returning to NY in late June..We are going to Europe for the next 3 weeks where we will visit friends in London and Scotland, then fly to Paris and train to Brussels and Brugge and Amsterdam and then end our trip with 6 days in Tuscany staying in our friend's empty apartment. We really lucked out with so many free lodgings :)

More from the road ..we'll send some updates from Europe.
We return from Europe to one last week in Israel before coming home...
The past week has been filled with packing, goodbyes and Jenny finishing her job...It's a very bittersweet feeling, leaving such an amazing place- but also being excited by Europe and all the exciting things that lay ahead of us...

Family Pictures b'aretz (in the land)

Some pictures from our family members who have recently visited these past few months: Jeremy and Jenny near the Lebanese border; Linda and Evan on the Tel Aviv beach; Jenny, Carol and Ken in Petra, Jordan; Grandma Shirley (or Shulamit as she prefers to be called by her Hebrew name here in the Holy Land!) and Jenny overlooking Jerusalem.

From Russia with Love

What a whirlwind past 10 days it's been! Russia was amazing. Tiring, as we traveled to 3 cities in 7 days and took 4 planes, one 14-hour overnight train and traveled at all hours of the day and night. But what an experience! We traveled with 2 other HUC students: Eli (who coincidentally went to Brandeis with us) and Carole (a second-career student who coincidentally is from Park Slope), and the 4 of us had a great time together. We learned a lot about different communities and were fascinated to learn more about life during the Communist period, referred to as "Soviet times." Every time we saw a hammer and sickle we would get really excited and fascinated to see the many leftover relics of Communism. Please see our pictures for many more (on the left-hand side of the blog) where it says Russia pictures.

Here are some highlights of our trip:

Our First City: Chelyabinsk, Russia in the Ural Mountains (a 2 hour plane ride from Moscow)
We loved the Chelyabinsk Jewish community - we met many of the madrichim (counselors/youth group leaders, many of whom were in university). They were an incredible bunch and ran both the Friday night Shabbat service and the seder. They were creative, musical, talented and very dedicated. We learned that in Russia it's often the older generation (grandparents) and the younger generation (people in their late teens, early 20s) who are most involved. This is a leftover from Soviet times, when religion was prohibited - and thus, many young adults are teaching their parents about Judaism and are most active in their communities. We had the best translator, Masha, who helped us immensely during our week in Russia- we didnt realize the importance of the translator, but as most people didn't speak English (except for some of the younger people), Masha was literaly our lifeline. It was definitely a different experience for Evan and I - as much traveling as we've done, we've never had a translator, which was wonderful in decoding menus and helping us commnicate but it's a completely different way of traveling and seeing the world, when everthing is filtered through another person. We also spent a lot of time with Vovo (his nickname), who was the rabbinic figure in Chelyabinsk. We visited the synagogue and saw Chabad - another interesting story about how pervasive Chabad is in the Former Soviet Union. The community center - home to the Progressive Movement (i.e. Reform Judaism) was an impressive building, built by mostly American support and by the Joint- the JDC (the organization we worked for in Turkey). I never cease to be impressed by the amazing work the JDC does all around the world.

Chelyabinsk is a city of 2-3 milion people and its symbol is the camel because it was directly on the ancient silk road and many caravans used to pass through the town. Another thing Chelyabinsk is famous for- although not very well-known outside of Russia was a huge nuclear explosion bigger than Chernobyl. Although most of the outside world didnt know about it because it was deep inside Russia and not picked up on like Chernobyl was by the Swedes. Despite this, it was a lovely city and we walked around the arbat (a pedestrian street), enjoyed live music and had a great seder that was very creative with the community. (This is a picture of Evan rockin' out at the seder!)

Tyumen, Siberia
How many people can claim they've been to the Cultural Capital of Western Siberia? We can now, after visiting Tyumen! We took at 14 hour overnight train to Tyumen which was actually a lot of fun, despite being in the smallest little room with 4 beds. The adventure began when Masha (our amazing translator) made a mistake with our train tickets- and after running out of the seder and saying many quick goodbyes to our new friends in Chelyabinsk, we arrived at the train station with just a few minutes to spare - until she realized that she read our tickets wrong. Even though it said 10:08 (pm) departure, it was on Moscow time, which was 2 hours earlier. All the trains in Russia run on Moscow time! It was the strangest thing- the fact that trains all run on Moscow time, despite there being 11 time zones in Russia! That's like leaving taking a plane from CA to Texas but the plane leaving not on CA or TX time but on Washington DC time. Crazy. So we had 2 hours at the train station to wait - before our long train ride. The train station was a riot. Most of the travellers were all men and when Masha and I went to go use the toilet (err..not real toilet, one of those in the ground) which we had to pay to use, the lady working at the toliet told us it was a smoking break and the toliet was closed! Only in Russia! Smoking breaks were a frequent occurrence, even in the middle of one of our seders!

We all had a great time on the train though, singing "Back in the USSR" and "Midnight train to Georgia, which we replaced with the words, Midnight train to Tyumen"...So we arrived in Siberia, set for freezing cold temperatures, only to find out that it was quite warm (in the 40s and 50s) but the buildings are all heated so much that we were practically sweating everywhere we went!

We met a very different Jewish community in Tyumen- about 700 Jews, compared with 10,000 in Chelyabinsk and there was no Chabad. The synagogue was beautiful and we quickly learned that most of the Jews in Tyumen had been "resettled" from Ukraine, Belarus and Russia. Some of them told us how they had seen their families shot in WWII, others said it was just part of the war to be moved; and Siberia was actually a good place for them! I dont think we were near the Gulag, and the infamous work camps, but rather, Tyumen, we learned was a city where a lot of people had been sent - Jews, Poles and others and it was a peaceful place where many groups co-existed. The Jewish community here was older although we led a youth seder (meaning young adults) which was fun, attended the Sunday School, led a Beit Midrash for young adults and visited the art studio, where elderly women gather weekly to do art projects.

We went out a bunch in Tyumen, including to a most bizarre nightclub with some people from the community. We also ate a lot of sushi - sushi is really big in Russia these days! and had our best meal of the trip - which was Georgian food (as in Georgia, the country). It was some of most delicious chicken I've ever had and Carole and I went to town on it (even though we were normally the pickier eaters). Let's just say those Russians sure do love their potatoes and mayonnaise and weird smoked meats in everything. Food wasn't my favorite part of the trip!

In both communities, we helped with seders and Shabbat and other things- but in neither place -did we fully lead anything. I know some students were disappointed, but Evan and I were really happy to see self-sustatining communities with strong leadership. Rather, we felt like guests which was a wonderful feeling, albeit a little strange because the para-rabbi in Tyumen (he worked as a rabbi and was an educator but not ordained as a rabbi) sent us mixed signals about our visit. Our visits were coordinated in Moscow and it was uncelar to us if he really wanted us..which was slightly uncomfortable although we still had a great visit.

We said goodbye to Masha in Tyumen and were really sad to leave her - she was such an important part of our Russian experience!

Moscow

We arrived in Moscow, exhausted after only sleeping 3 hours but were all rock stars and did it up that day walking around the city and meeting up with our friends Brian and Elana, who had been in other cities in Russia and with Michael and Hannah who had also arrived in Moscow that day. We went to Red Square, where we saw Lenin's mauseoulm, and St. Basel's Cathedral, which is amazing and looks straight out of "It's a Small World" from Disneyworld. We explored the Moscow Metro, which is very big and also beautiful- the stations are so majestic, complete with chandeliers and statues. It was strange to be in bustling metropolis after being in quaint Tyumen and walking everywhere. In Moscow we took taxis, subways and shared taxis and walked a lot. We went to the famous arbat (pedestrian street) and had a delicious dinner of not-so-kosher for Passover pancakes! It was really hard to resist and given all the meat options I was quite limited... this picture is from St. Basel's Cathedral in Red Square

Our day in Moscow ended with Evan and the gang throwing a surprise party for me in our hotel room for my 29th birthday! It was a lot of fun and our Russian friends taught us a Russian tradition - which they made me do..vodka shots..with a chaser of salmon (lox!). It was um, kinda nasty but fun. It was a great way to celebrate a wonderful trip!

Our last day in Moscow we saw an amazing cathedral and a synagogue which was quite impressive and had fun in a Russian supermarket. We also had an extremely long day of traveling which included: 2 long taxi rides, many subway rides, a 4 hour flight and 3 sherut rides (shared taxis) in Moscow and in Israel. Whew!

A few things about Russia that stood out: the bureacracy! So many ridiculous things we had to do with paperwork, felt like a leftover from Soviet times, the zillions of women who wear high heels and are very fashionable and the men who were never as good-looking as the women.
This picture is from the majestic Moscow Metro (subway)

On another note, walking through Russia in the footsteps of so much history, I also felt the presence of my friend Hannah Engle, of blessed memory. Hannah led the FSU trip back when she was a student at UCLA in 2002 with my friend Shauna. I knew it was something she was really passionate about - and she also led seders and got many students involved in the project. I thought of Hannah often - and felt she was with me during the trip. I think she would have been impressed to see Jewish life growing and flourishing in Russia - and to have seen strong Jewish communities all around the world. I even had some dreams with her in them and felt so grateful to have had her in my life - and to have had this unbelievable experience in Russia...

Musings

We are leaving in 1 hour for Russia, where we will be spending Passover helping lead seders in two different cities in Siberia- Chelyabinsk (near the border with Kazaksthan!) and Tyumen (the second wealthiest city in Russia because it has so much oil). After spending 5 days with these two communities, we then fly to Moscow where we have 2 days to sightsee and also will be celebrating my 29th birthday in Moscow. Crazy crazy on all fronts...Siberia here we come. We are going with other students as part of the HUC Pesach Project, where 40 students are traveling all over Belarus, Ukraine and Russia to help lead seders.

Linda (Evan's mom) was just here and we had a wonderful visit with her. The flowers are all in bloom and springtime brings such an amazing energy to Jerusalem. We will post pictures soon.

But life hasn't been all roses either - our (rental) car was broken into last week when Linda was visiting. Losing stuff is annoying. Losing stuff that costs money is upsetting. And losing my journal felt like losing one of the best parts of this year. But alas, I will write again and start anew. But it's been a rollercoaster of a few days.

It looks like we are moving to LA...we are trying to get excited about it and dream of the beach and endless good sushi. I imagine LA to be a new sort of promised land...or at least that's one of my coping mechanisms for dealing with our extreme disappointment.

Vicious Kitten is turning 18 next week. I still remember the day she was born on Landershire Lane in Plano, Texas. I feel so blessed to have had such a wonderful kitten in my life all these years. I've always remarked that if everyone in the world got half as much love as Vicious gets the world would be such a better place.

It is crazy to think that when we return from Russia, we'll only have 1 month left. A month where Grandma Shirley is coming to visit - which we're very excited about, a month of very important Israeli holidays- Yom Hashoah (Holocaust and Heroes day); Yom Hazikron (Memorial Day -which does not mean sales like it does in the states and is a very real and solemn day or so they say) and Yom Haatzmaut - Israeli Indepence Day, where Israel is celebrating her 60th birthday. A lot of excitement, and a lot going on. A lot of transitions, beginnings and endings. Yes it's that time again.

Have a wonderful Passover and happy springtime.

Riding 4 Reform

I just returned from a 5 day bike trip through the Negev Desert to support the Reform Movement in Israel. I had no idea what to expect on this trip, and I sit here now feeling so grateful that I had the opportunity to go on this ride (and that my body and bum lasted 5 days on a bicycle.)

50 of us set out from Tel Aviv in 115 degree mid-day heat on Sunday. There was great excitement as I met fellow HUC students who are studying in the states, rabbis and cantors who left their congregations this week to support the ride, and Israeli teenagers who are participating in a year of service before going to the army. Before leaving, we sang Hatikvah together, and I think for the first time this year I was truly moved, looking around at everyone in their jerseys, thinking about the cause that I was advocating for, and anticipating the 5 days of riding I was about to embark on.

There is really nothing like riding through Israel on a bike. On buses I usually sleep so I always miss the scenery, and it would just take a bit too long to walk from Tel Aviv to Eilat. There was a great sensation of riding through the country, feeling like I was doing something Jewish, yet it was SO different from anything I had ever done in Israel, or in my life for that matter. I noticed the scenery around me, felt the dust of the desert all over my body, REALLY felt each rock and bump in the road, and loved having truck drivers and people waiting for their buses wave happily to our group as we rode by.

As our HUC group rode into Eilat, our extremely supportive fellow students cheered and waved signs. I took a moment to look around, give Jenny a huge hug and kiss, and feel a real sense of accomplishment and new connection to Israel. The scenery was breathtaking, the people were adventurous and interesting, and I feel absolutely great. Thanks to everyone who supported me on this ride and I definitely plan to go next year if there's anyone else interested!

Evan and the Ride for Reform

Just wanted ya'll to know - Evan is currently on the Ride for Reform, a 5-day bike ride from Tel Aviv to Eilat, which is over 300 miles. He is on day #3 and really loving it so far. You can read more about it on the blog: http://riding4reform2008.blogspot.com/

The ride supports the Reform movement in Israel. I'll be going to Eilat (which is on the Red Sea) on Thursday with friends to meet up with the riders and celebrate with them. We'll post pictures when Evan is back in Jerusalem. Wish him luck his final 2 days as he rides through the hot Negev desert!

Israel Musings

Has it really been 6 weeks since we've written? Today I was thinking about how unnatural writing on this blog feels for me...and how I wish it came naturally to me, the way writing with an old fashioned pen and paper do. I always wonder- who is out there reading this blog? Who is out there reading all blogs - there are so many of them, how does one even keep up?

Having the blessing of several first-time visitors to Israel (including Alyssa, Evan's younger sister; Jeremy, my older brother, and my parents and soon Linda), has been wonderful, exciting and also made us reflect a lot on Israel as we showcase her during our whirlwind tours and guiding of family. As Dave Mendelsson, Evan's favorite professor, always says- the mission and motives of any group are important - and just as an educator must think about the goals and intentions of any trip, so too, have we reflected on how we can showcase the many complex sides of Israel and how our visitors can view, understand and learn about this place in 10 to 12 day trips.

I've also been thinking about my first trip to Israel and how so much of it is a blur - but the one thing that remains sharply in focus is the feelings, the utter emotions I felt as a 17-year-old, standing before the Kotel for the first time, thinking about Grandpa New Mexico (as I lovingly refer to my maternal grandpa who lived in Albuquerque), and what he would have said if he could stand with me at the Kotel (which, of course today, could never happen, because the Orthodox have succeeded in transforming the Western Wall into an Orthodox synagogue where men and women are separated..but back to focusing on things I like about Israel) or the communal group feeling of sleeping overnight and hiking up the Roman ramp at 4 am for a Masada sunrise..or the feeling of being part of 100 Jews from 12 countries on an international leadership BBYO group. How would my life be different today if I hadn't experience that pivotal month in Israel?

And so, we try to jam pack it all in. My mom complained that I was a drill sergeant with no patience - on the second point, she may be right and is one of the few traits I have in common with Israelis, who are infamous for their lack of savlanut (patience). But I was a drill sergeant for a good reason! There's this amazingly beautiful, complicated, difficult, wondrous country I want my family to see! And only 24 hours in a day to do so! And so much good food to eat, and cobblestone little streets to meander, and people to see, and places to hike, read, explore, see and to soak it all in. All in this tiny sliver of land, not much bigger than New Jersey.

My rabbi friend, Steven, who is visiting from Chicago who brought 100 people here from his synagogue asked me recently over nana tea (mint leaves) at the David Citadel hotel, what are some of my favorite things about living in Israel. Here's my attempt to name just a few:

* Shopping in the shuk (market) every week for the freshest produce around
* Walking everywhere in Jerusalem and not relying on public transportation
* Sitting on our amazing mirpesset (balcony)
* Listening to the joyful singing outside our windows every Shabbat evening and morning
* Meeting people who are seeking something in this very spiritual city
* Questioning the world and its crazy politics, especially because I believe Jerusalem really is the center of the world and hence, has been plagued with conquests, wars, religious wars for well over 2,000 years
* Meandering in the Old City and sitting on the roof of the Austrian hospice, looking at all the roofs and seeing how the Christian-Jewish-Muslim parts of this city blend together from the rooftop view...if only it were that easy...although Christians, Jews and Muslims have lived peacefully for many years all in the Old City together - coexistence in action!
* Seeing the lush green forests of the North, the rolling hills of the Kinneret (Galilee), the browns of the desert, the soaring mountains and the blue beaches of Tel Aviv

And to close, with some words from my journal from a recent tiyul (trip) to the Negev desert:
"Meditation outside in the desert. It's beautiful here, fresh air blowing gently, hearing singing off in the distance, sitting under acacia trees, walking through the dry and unforgiving desert, just as the Israelites must have done...feeling such a connection to this land, to this place, to Israel, to Zionism, despite all her problems, struggles and grievances and despite all the Israelis that I love to hate. Tiyul #3 - hiking in Har Shlomo, feeling such a proud sense of accomplishment - I'm a hiker! Sitting at the peak, overlooking Israel, Jordan, Egypt (Sinai) and Saudia Arabia off in the far away distance. What a crazy feeling seeing Israel's enemies so close, and yet such majestic beauty - the soaring red cliffs, and orange and brown and the dazzling blue waters of hte Sea of Eilat which lead into the Gulf of Aqaba.

I think the desert moves me in a way that other places don't. I'm sure it has something to do with Arizona, with beautiful, big open skies, with a a sense that this is such a big, open world and survival can be so hard, so prickly - and so beautiful and that mountains - like the mountains of Sandia Peak are the first part of nature I fell in love with...

Alyssa's visit and February updates

What a past few weeks it's been- the rollercoaster of life has been keeping us busy with plans, friends, family, life decisions and the general hum-drum of life. We celebrated a lovely 4 year engagement on February 9th by hiking in Ein Gedi, just as we hiked up some 400 stairs up the Duomo in Florence, Italy when we decided to spend the rest of our lives together. Climbing seems to be an important idea for us - so we vowed that every year on Feb 9th (or as close to it as possible) we'll do something that involves climbing, hiking, or some new adventure bringing us to a higher place.

The weather here is parallel to our lives - lately there have been some spring-like days, where the sun is shining, the weather is warm, life feels wonderful, refreshing and charged with so much excitement...and then there have been the frequent rainstorms (and more potential snow tomorrow!), and the usual gray cold dampness of winter where we are feeling stuck. Happy to say that there have been many more days of the former - Evan is busily engaged in his 2nd semester of school and training for a 5-day bike ride from Tel Aviv to Eilat where he will be biking 300 miles with the Ride for Reform. Our Pesach Project preparations are underway, where we will be going to Moscow in April.

About the whole next 4 years of our life: still no decisions or news. But the good news is that we are in a better place than we were and have come to a new place of questioning, discussing, dreaming and envisioning a great next few years in either NY or LA...will definitely keep ya'll posted. There are still many unanswered questions and things cooking as I like to say, so time will tell soon...because there are so many logistics that we need to start thinking about post-June.

Our friends David, Gal and Dahlia left last week. I referenced them in an earlier post, Gal is 5 months pregnant and the baby's lungs are not developing correctly and they left to seek the best medical care, which happens to be in San Francisco, where they are from. Evan and I helped plan a healing service for them which was such a beautiful, moving and difficult night. We are keeping them and their baby in our prayers- it will be a long road, fighting for this baby's life but they are strong and we ask you to also send positive energy their way.

We have been blessed with many visitors this year - most recently Alyssa, Evan's sister came here on a Birthright trip and extended her ticket to spend an additional 5 days with us. Tonight we had sibling night, when Jeremy arrived and the two of us with our siblings dined on a fine dinner we threw together after Evan almost had all of the Budget office in Jerusalem chasing him (long story: but next time one is in Israel don't use Budget car rental!)

Evan and Alyssa outside Jaffa Gate: Signs were up everywhere celebrating the 40 years of reunification of Jerusalem (gained in the 1967 War). Now this year Israel is celebrating her 60th birthday in May. We're really excited to be here during these milestone events.


Alyssa and Jenny at the Tishbi Winery restaurant in Zikron Yaakov - a great foodie place! Alyssa loved picturesque Zikron, even on a cold February day it was charming and felt like a dreamy little village.
The cutest siblings ever- Alyssa and Evan in our apartment


The day we turned over a new leaf: Hiking in Ein Gedi, Getting Physically Recharged and Taking Life by Zest Again (and amen to that)

Sending you all love...
Jenny and Evan

Snow in Jerusalem

Vicious Kitten looks out at the snow on our huge balcony.
Jenny in the snow (in our neighborhood). It was so much fun!

A very long month

We apologize for not writing much lately. Life has been keeping up really busy - and has dealt us with some frustrating moments recently. So it's now 6:23 am and since I (Jenny) don't seem able to sleep in longer than 6-hour intervals anymore I'm awake, my head running with a thousand thoughts. I've been sick for weeks - part of it just plain sickness coupled with travel, stress and mental exhaustion on multiple levels and finally after returning from the US, my body just broke down two days ago. We trudged in a snowstorm to the doctors office to find out I have a sinus infection and an ear infection - which has been quite painful (and why I wake up so frequently). I only felt a sense of relief when the doctor told me because I was beginning to think I was going crazy and was happy to have a name for my ills. The snow was beautiful - and it was amazing how it didn't get all black and smooty the way it does in NYC. Of course the Israelis had no idea what to do with the snow, most roads weren't plowed and almost everything remained closed (even with just a few inches!).

A few weeks ago we were scheduled to go to London and Scotland for a one-week vacation following Evan's finals. The day before we were supposed to leave, we noticed something wasn't right with Vicious Kitten. After finding a vet and spending 2 hours with him that night where we ran many tests, including an ultrasound and hooked her up to an IV, we knew we weren't going on that trip. After bringing her to the vet every day for 14 days (where she received liquids via an IV, had many blood samples taken and received a daily dose of antibiotics) she has recovered and has a whole new zest for life. We are so grateful she is doing so much better. She is back to her old self, eats more now than ever and seems to have become even more of a princess than before! Our friends in London and Edinburgh understood - and it was just another reminder that we can only plan so much in life and then the rest happens...And god willing, we'll celebrate chai (18 = life) birthday in Jerusalem in April. I can think of no better fitting place to celebrate life than here in this city.

Speaking of which, last night we received some very upsetting news about some of our friends here. It's still confidential so I can't give details but let's just say they are facing some really scary health and medical issues and will be returning to the US far sooner than planned. The whole thing hit really close to home and even with my body that feels heavy with infection I am trying to send them positive energy and strength, for they will need it in the coming weeks.

We too are battling our own internal fight with HUC. Every time I think about it my blood pressure seems to rise and as many of you know, last year they assigned Evan to the LA campus, our second choice. We think LA could be a really great city and it would be amazing to be close to Phoenix and to my family - but were very upset by the arbitrary nature of how the school assigns students to campuses. We recently wrote a damn good appeal letter and it was rejected (as were 4 out of the 5 other people who appealed). The school cites reasons like needing a certain amount of students on each campus which is not a sufficient answer when we are dealing with something as big as the next 4 years of our life. I can't get into all the other thorny details on a public blog, but let's just say this whole experience has not been pleasant. Meanwhile, I was just in the States for my last Wexner conference in Florida and then flew up to NY for a very short period of time for job interviews. I had many - so many that my head is swirling with thoughts about what I want and am feeling totally mentally drained. We're in a very weird place these days - fighting a school that doesn't seem to care two shits about its students and because I work there there is another layer of complication. I know all organizations are bogged down in inefficiency, bureaucracy, and arcane policies - but HUC has shown me a whole other side of this - heck, I think it gives NYU a run for its money in terms of organizational hoops you have to jump through (and it's probably 1/100 of the size or budget of NYU).

The thing is that we feel really unsettled. We have for the past 8 months since this whole mess happened. It's no longer just about a geographic difference between NY and LA, as we said LA isnt such a bad place and could offer us some fantastic new opportunities - but increasingly becoming about the messed-up, unfair and totally arbitrary process and bullshit HUC is putting us through. So many things have happened recently that I know we can only plan so much...and that everything works out in the end...and that health issues can trump everything...but still we are filled with so much anxiety, wondering, waiting, fighting, stressing these days.

We'll keep you posted as the drama continues to unfold. Meanwhile I cant help but think about how it's the wee hours into February 1st and it's time for a new energy...a letting go of sorts...always easier said than done...