Leaving Israel

June 24, 2008

2 months ago today we found out we weren’t moving to LA, but rather, to NY.
4 weeks ago, on a Tuesday, we set out for London and for our three week trip to Europe.
Today, 4 weeks later, we have set out for NY by a circuitous route that will first take us to Connecticut, Massachusetts and New Jersey before rolling into Brooklyn.
And 4 weeks from today, also on a Tuesday, I start my job at AJWS.

5 large suitcases, 3 carry-on bags, plus one guitar and one Vicious Kitten later and we made it to the crazy Ben-Gurion airport. Flying on an Israeli airline always feels like one giant dysfunctional family reunion all on board the plane.

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Walking through Jerusalem this is what I see and hear: noisy construction at what seems like every major intersection; hordes of tourists who have descended upon the city for the summer season; lots of black, hot hot black coats with religious Jews who don traditional clothing; impatient Israelis who will love you and tell you how it is all in the same breath – a remarkable quality of Israelis that I have come to appreciate for their genuine honesty (even if sometimes it is too honest); the flags that change with whatever head-of-state is currently in country – this time it was the French flag because Sarkozy was in town; the sweet smell of roses near the David Citadel pool as I come up for air and to absorb the sight before my eyes- swimming and looking out on the Old City walls – now that is truly extraordinary; the cacophony of sounds and spices and people at the shuk – it’s amazing that this country works at all and at the shuk is where I feel it the most, with the venders who scream their prices, especially as the day draws to a close and everyting goes on sale, with the exotic mounds of spices, Arab venders, Jewish venders, my sweet spice and flower guy who calls me “moti” (sweetie) and always greets me with a huge smile and a friendly conversation.

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And these are the things I can’t hear or smell or see but can feel: a sense of frustration and anger from all kinds of Israelis, anger that the economy is staggering; angry that the peace process is as elusive as ever; angry that there is talk about a divided Jerusalem; angry that Israel would even consider giving up East Jerusalem – polar opposites and extremes. Israel is a land of extremes and a country that attracts extremists. With extreme heat and extreme coldness at night – it is the desert. With extreme Jews, who pray for the Third Temple and for the secular Israelis who live their Judaism by speaking Hebrew and living in the Holy Land. With Arabs, Christians, Palestinians, Jews, tourists and world leaders alike – who all claim a stake of this tiny sliver of land. Jerusalem is home to 42 different denominations of Christians and many say it is the most diverse Christian city in the world. Extremes of wealth: Israel’s high-tech industry has produced great wealth among the upper echelon of society, yet a staggering number of Jews still live in poverty in Israel in 2008.

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Israel is akin to a patchwork quilt, with all kinds of people and squares and stitching that composes and defines its many colors, its people, its dreams and its legend. Conquered by endless rulers and empires, its stones tell a very powerful story. Walking around the city gives me a sense of wanderlust – who walked on this very street before me, what have these stones borne witness to – which leader or prophet taught and inculcated his followings at various point in time and history. Woven together by a rich diversity and with very complicated borders it is a city that has evoked emotion and wars for over 2,000 years. And peace comes at a very steep price for this very special city. Yet, the feeling of walking around on Shabbat, with peace and quiet in the air, is an elusive feeling that I’d take in my suitcase if only I could. I was happy to have been part of its history, to have walked in the footsteps of the prophets, even if only for a brief moment in time.